2 Cute Cow

 

What You Need:

Hook: E 3.5mm

Yarn Needle

Fiber Fill

Safety Eyes

The yarn I used for this project is no longer being sold, but here are some good alternatives- Yarn 1- Yarn 2

Downloadable PDF 

 

Pattern:

Feet (make 2)

Ch 2,

Round 1: Work 8 hdc in second ch from hook, do not join, mark last st made with a stitch marker.

Round 2: 2 hdc in each st. (16 sts)

Round 3: 1hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end. (24 sts)

Round 4: 1dec in next st, 1 hdc in next st, repeat to end. (16 sts)

Round 5-10: 1 hdc in each st to end. (16 sts) 

 

Body

Use both legs when starting round 11.

Round 11: 1 hdc in next 16 st’s, ch 2, 1 hdc in next 16 st’s. (34 sts) Mark last st made with a stitch marker.

Round 12: 1 hdc in each st. (36) Hdc in the ch’s

Round 13: 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end. (54 sts)

Round 14-18: 1 hdc in each st. (54)

Round 19: 1 hdc in next 16 st’s, 1dec in next st, repeat to end. (51 sts) Round 20: 1 hdc in each st. (51)

Round 21: 1 hdc in next 15 st’s, 1dec in next st, repeat to end. (48 sts) Round 22: 1 hdc in each st. (48)

Round 23: 1 hdc in next 10 st’s, 1dec in next st, repeat to end. (40 sts)

Round 24: 1 hdc in each st. (40)

Round 25: 1 hdc in next 9 st’s, 1dec in next st, repeat to end. (36)

Round 26: 1 hdc in each st. (36)

Round 27: 1 hdc in next 8 st’s, 1dec in next st, repeat to end. (32)

Round 28: 1 hdc in each st. (32)

Round 29: 1 hdc in next 7 st’s, 1dec in next st, repeat to end. (28)

Round 30-40: 1 hdc in each st. (28) Finish off, leave long tail for sewing. 

 

 

 

Arms (Make 2)

Ch 2,

Round 1: 4 hdc in second ch from hook, mark last st made with a stitch marker.

Round 2: 2 sc in each st. (8 sts)

Round 3: 1hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end. (12 sts)

Round 4: 1hdc in next 2 st’s, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end. (16 sts)

Round 5: 1hdc in next 3 st’s, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end. (20 sts)

Round 6: 1hdc in next 3 st’s, 1dec in next st, repeat to end. (16 sts)

Round 7: 1hdc in next 2 st’s, 1dec in next st, repeat to end. (12 sts) Round 8-16: 1hdc in each st around. Fasten off leaving a tail. 

 

 

 

Head

Ch 2,

Round 1: Work 6 hdc in second ch from hook, mark last st made with a stitch marker.

Round 2: 2 hdc in each st. (12 sts)

Round 3: 1hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end. (18 sts) Round 4: 1hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end, (24 sts)

Round 5: 1hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end, (30 sts)

Round 6: 1hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end, (36 sts)

Round 7: 1hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end, (42 sts)

Round 8: 1hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end, (48 sts)

Rounds 9-13: 1 hdc in each st around.

Round 14: 1 dec in next st, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, repeat to end, (42 sts) Rounds 15: 1 hdc in each st around. Place eyes between round 10-11. Round 16: 1 dec in next st, 1 hdc in next 5 sts, repeat to end, (36 sts) Rounds 17: 1 hdc in each st around.

Round 18: 1 dec in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts, repeat to end, (30 sts)

Rounds 19: 1 hdc in each st around.

Round 20: 1 dec in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 st’s, repeat to end, (24 sts) Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

 

 

 

Ears (Make 2)

Round 1: Ch 2, 4 hdc in second ch from hook. (4)

Round 2: 1 hdc in next st, 2 sc in next st, repeat to end. (6)

Round 3: 1 hdc in each st. (6)

Round 4: 2 hdc in each st. (12)

Round 5: 1 hdc in next st, 2 sc in next st, repeat to end. (18) Round 6: 1 hdc in next 2 st’s, 2 sc in next st, repeat to end. (24)

Round 7: 1 hdc in next 3 st’s, 2 sc in next st, repeat to end. (30)

Round 8-12: 1 hdc in each st. (30)

Round 13: 1 hdc in next st, dec in next st, repeat to end. (20)

Round 14: Fold flat and sc across, working through both sides.

Round 15: Fold in half 2 sc across, working through both sides. Leaving long tail for sewing.

 

 

Snout

Round 1: Ch 5, 2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next 2 st’s, 4 hdc in next st, turn work continue on other side, skip next st, 1 hdc in next 2 st’s, 2 hdc in next st. (12)

Round 2: 2 hdc in next 2 st’s, 1 hdc in next 2 st’s, 2 hdc in next 4 st’s, 1 hdc in next 2 st’s, 2 hdc in next 2 st’s. (20)

Round: 3: 1 hdc in next 4 st’s, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end. (24)

Round: 4: 1 hdc in next 5 st’s, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end. (28)

Round: 5: 1 hdc in next 6 st’s, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end. (32)

Round 6: 1 sc in each st. (32) Snout should be sew in between the eyes. 

Horns (Make 2)

Round 1: Ch 2, 4 hdc in second ch from hook. (4)

Round 2: 1 hdc in next st, 2 sc in next st, repeat to end. (6)

Round 3: 1 hdc in next 2 st’s, 2 sc in next st, repeat to end. (8) Round 4: 1 hdc in next 3 st’s, 2 sc in next st, repeat to end. (10)

Round 5: 1 hdc in next 4 st’s, 2 sc in next st, repeat to end. (12) Round 6: 1 hdc in next 5 st’s, 2 sc in next st, repeat to end. (14)

Round 7-10: 1 hdc in each st. (14) 

 

 

Cow Spots: 1 Optional

Ch 2, 4 hdc in second ch from hook.

Round 2: 2 hdc in each st.

Round 3: 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end.

Round 4: 2 hdc in each st.

Round 5: 1 hdc in next 2 st’s, 2 hdc in next st, repeat to end.

Round 6: Sc in first st, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc in next st, skip next st, slip stitch in next stitch, 1 hdc in next 10 st’s, sc in next st, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc in next st, skip next st, slip stitch, 1 hdc in next 5 st’s, sc in next st, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc in next st, skip next st, slip stitch, 2 Hdc in last 5 st’s. Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Sew spots on to cow.

Cow Spots: 2 Optional

Ch 2, 4 sc in second ch from hook.

Round 2: 2 sc in each around.

Round 3: 1 hdc, dc, hdc sc in first stitch, slip stitch in next stitch, 1 hdc, dc, hdc, sc in next, slip stitch in next, 2 hdc in last 4 st’s. Fasten off leaving long tail to sew onto hat. Sew spots on to cow.

 

 

Crochet 101 (Perfect for Beginners)

 

 Lesson 2.5: Changing Colors

 

What You'll Learn

By the end of this lesson, you'll understand:

• The fundamental rule for making clean, seamless color changes.

• How to change colors at the end of a row or round.

• How to change colors in the middle of a row.

• What to do with your yarn ends: carrying yarn vs. cutting/weaving.

• How to work basic colorwork techniques (Stripes, Tapestry Crochet, and Intarsia).

• How to avoid common color-change mistakes like bulky knots or visible color bumps.

1. The Golden Rule of Changing Colors

The single most important secret to changing colors in crochet without showing odd diagonal bars or messy loops is:

Always complete the final yarn over of the last stitch with your NEW color.

No matter what stitch you are using (single crochet, double crochet, treble crochet, etc.), you always start the stitch in Color A, but when you have the final loops remaining on your hook to complete that stitch, you grab Color B and pull it through to finish.

Why This Works

The top loops (the "V") sitting on top of any stitch actually belong to the stitch created after it. If you complete the last stitch in Color A, the top loop for your next stitch will be Color A, causing an unsightly bleed into your new row or color section. Finishing the stitch with Color B ensures the active loop on your hook is immediately ready in the new color.

2. Step-by-Step: Changing Colors by Stitch Type

A. Single Crochet (sc)

1. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over with Color A, and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook).

2. Drop Color A to the back/wrong side.

3. Place a slipknot or loop of Color B on hook.

4. Pull Color B through both loops on hook to complete the single crochet.

B. Half Double Crochet (hdc)

1. Yarn over with Color A, insert hook into stitch, yarn over with Color A, and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).

2. Drop Color A.

3. Yarn over with Color B and pull through all 3 loops on hook to complete the half double crochet.

C. Double Crochet (dc)

1. Yarn over with Color A, insert hook into stitch, yarn over with Color A, and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).

2. Yarn over with Color A and pull through 2 loops (2 loops remaining on hook).

3. Drop Color A.

4. Yarn over with Color B and pull through the final 2 loops on hook.

3. Changing Colors in Different Scenarios

1. At the End of a Row

When working stripes or solid-color blocks across whole rows:

1. Work across the row in Color A until you reach the final stitch.

2. Begin the last stitch in Color A, but finish the final yarn over with Color B.

3. Chain your turning chain using Color B.

4. Turn your work and continue Row 2 in Color B.

2. In the Middle of a Row

When working motifs, polka dots, or graphic colorwork:

1. Work up to the stitch before the color change.

2. Perform the final yarn over of that stitch using Color B.

3. Work the required number of stitches in Color B.

4. On the final stitch of the Color B section, perform the last yarn over using Color A (or Color C).

3. At the End of a Joined Round

When crocheting in joined rounds (like granny squares or striped hats):

1. Complete the final stitch of the round in Color A, stopping at the last yarn over; pull Color B through to finish.

2. Insert hook into the first stitch of the round to make a slip stitch.

3. Yarn over with Color B and pull through to complete the join slip stitch.

4. Chain and begin the next round in Color B.

4. Managing Your Yarn: Carrying vs. Cutting

When switching colors, you have three main choices for handling the working strands:

                ┌─────────────────────────────────────────┐
                                           How often are you changing colors?      
                  └────────────────────┬────────────────────┘
                                                                        │
            ┌──────────────────────────┴──────────────────────────┐
            ▼                                                                                                                                      ▼
     Every 1–2 Rows / Short Distances                                                                   Every 6+ Rows / Large Blocks
┌───────────────────────────────────────┐            ┌───────────────────────────────────────┐
│ CARRY THE YARN                                                                                     CUT AND WEAVE (Fasten Off)            │
├───────────────────────────────────────┤            ├───────────────────────────────────────┤
│ • Floating: Carry up the side edge.                                                               • Snip yarn leaving a 6" tail.       
│ • Tapestry: Encase working strand                                                               • Securely weave in ends later with a 
│   inside the stitches.                                                                                        yarn needle.                        
└───────────────────────────────────────┘            └───────────────────────────────────────┘

Option A: Carrying Up the Side (Best for 2-Row Stripes)

• If you return to Color A every 2 rows, do not cut the yarn!

• Leave Color A attached along the edge. When you return to that edge, simply pick Color A back up and pull it up to match the height of your turning chain.

• Tip: Keep the carried strand slightly slack so the side edge doesn't pucker or pull tight.

Option B: Tapestry Style (Carrying Across Stitches)

• Lay the unused strand (Color A) along the top of the previous row's stitches.

• Work your new stitches with Color B directly over the strand, trapping it inside the fabric.

• Best for: Small graphics, lettering, or frequent mid-row changes.

Option C: Cut and Fasten Off (Best for Large Sections)

• If you won't use Color A again for many rows, cut the yarn leaving a 6-inch tail.

• Weave in the tail securely using a yarn needle at the end of the project.

5. Overview of Color-work Techniques

Technique	Description	Best Used For
Stripes	Changing colors at row/round ends across whole rows.	Blankets, scarves, sweaters
Tapestry Crochet	Carrying unused yarn colors inside the stitches across the row. Creates dense, reversible fabric.	Bags, sturdy potholders, tapestry wall hangings
Intarsia	Using separate bobbins/balls of yarn for each color block without carrying yarn across.	Large graphic motifs, argyle sweater panels
Mosaic Crochet	Working with one color per row while using drop-down stitches (spiked double crochets) to create geometric patterns.	Intricate geometric blankets and wraps

6. Common Pitfalls & How to Fix Them

1. Joggy Joins in Stripes (In the Round):

   • Problem: When changing colors in spiral/continuous rounds, a harsh "step" or "jog" forms.

   • Fix: Use joined rounds rather than spiral rounds when working stripes, or use a "jogless stripe" technique (slip stitch into the first stitch, then pick up the new color).

2. Puckered Edges:

   • Problem: Carrying yarn up the side edge or across stitches too tightly makes the fabric curl or pull inward.

   • Fix: Give the carried strand extra slack before completing your first stitch in the new color.

3. Knots Pulling Apart:

   • Problem: Tying simple square knots between color switches can cause holes or unravel over time.

   • Fix: Never rely solely on knots. Leave a 6-inch tail for both colors and weave them in two opposite directions using a yarn needle.

7. Practice Quiz

Test Your Color Changing Knowledge

1. When changing from Color A to Color B, when do you introduce Color B?

• A) After completing the stitch in Color A and making a chain.

• B) On the final yarn over of the last stitch in Color A.

• C) At the beginning of the next row only.

2. What is the main benefit of carrying yarn up the side edge during 2-row stripes?

• A) It makes the fabric stretchier.

• B) It prevents you from having to cut yarn and weave in dozens of loose ends.

• C) It automatically creates a border.

3. In Tapestry Crochet, where does the unused yarn strand sit while you stitch?

• A) Hanging loose on the front of the work.

• B) Along the top of the previous row's stitches, enclosed inside the new stitches.

• C) Cut short at every color change.

Quiz Answers

• Question 1: B) On the final yarn over of the last stitch in Color A. This ensures the working loop on your hook is the new color before you start the next stitch.

• Question 2: B) It prevents you from having to cut yarn and weave in dozens of loose ends. It saves time and minimizes weaving!

• Question 3: B) Along the top of the previous row's stitches, enclosed inside the new stitches. This carries the yarn seamlessly across the row without long floats on the back.

8. Homework 🧶

1. Make a 2-Color Swatch:

   • Chain 12 in Color A.

   • Work 2 rows of Single Crochet in Color A.

   • On Row 2, final stitch, complete the last yarn over with Color B.

   • Work 2 rows in Color B, carrying Color A up the edge.

2. Practice Mid-Row Changing:

   • On Row 5, sc 4 sts in Color B, switch to Color A on the 4th stitch, sc 3 sts in Color A, then switch back to Color B for the rest of the row.

3. Inspect Your Work: Look closely at the color transitions. Are the top loops neat and matching the stitches below them?

Lesson Summary

Changing colors opens up endless creative possibilities in crochet!

• Always swap to your new color on the final yarn over of the stitch right before the change.

• Carry yarn when working short color repeats, and cut/weave ends when working larger sections.

• Master this basic mechanic, and you'll be ready for stripes, tapestry motifs, and intricate colorwork patterns!